Alps valley of Kashmir: Aru Valley
After reaching Jammu, the first destination that came to my mind was Pahalgam. So, I set off from Jammu towards Pahalgam. Upon reaching Anantnag, I had to take a right turn towards Pahalgam; going straight would have taken me to Srinagar. After crossing Anantnag, I began to see the beautiful Lidder River running alongside the road and numerous cafes with river views, which filled me with excitement. The area was lush with greenery, and I instantly fell in love with Pahalgam's beauty. The scenic surroundings helped ease the fatigue I felt from the motorbike ride, which took about 7-8 hours.
Using the Go Wild app, I looked up places to visit in Pahalgam. The first thing that came to mind was Aru Valley, located 14 km away from Pahalgam. As I arrived in Pahalgam, I saw a beautiful market and hotels on both sides of the road. Beyond the market, I encountered stunning gardens and parks filled with people, but the gardens were breathtaking.
I decided to head towards Aru Valley after crossing the Pahalgam market. It was evening when I took the left turn towards Aru Valley. On the way, I passed a beautiful amusement park alongside the river, which was incredibly serene. As I crossed the park, I saw people camping by the riverside. I decided to set up my camp there and proceed to Aru Valley the next day.
I approached a fellow camper and asked if I could set up my tent nearby. He said to go ahead but mentioned a fee of INR 100 for cleaning. As I looked around, I noticed the site was littered with plastics, empty beer cans, and choked washrooms. It was quite filthy, but I found a spot away from the crowd where I could set up my tent. I spent the night there, with the sound of the flowing river initially making me uncomfortable, but I got used to it after some time.
In the morning, I packed up my tent, secured it onto my motorbike, and headed towards Aru Valley. The excitement of seeing this place for the first time was overwhelming. As I crossed the bridge, I got my first glimpse of Aru Valley with its green meadows surrounded by alpine forests, reminiscent of the Swiss Alps. A stream flowed down to join the river, and in the middle of the meadows stood the J&K Tourism Bungalow, with beautiful gardens outside. The bungalow offers rooms ranging from INR 1500 to 3000. There are also homestays and hotels in Aru Valley, with prices starting from INR 800 to 2000. If you plan to stay outside the market area, you'll find cheaper rooms.
I arrived early in the morning and parked my bike at the designated parking area, where washroom facilities are available for INR 10 per person. As I walked towards the tourism bungalow along the fence, I saw shepherds with their sheep and horsemen looking for customers. Crossing the fence, the scenery reminded me of the Windows 7 wallpaper: lush meadows with horses grazing. There were camping sites where you could set up your own tent, and a few steps down, you could see the stream. I sat by the water for a while before heading back to the parking area where my bike was.
I unpacked my bag, set up my tent at the campsite, and put all my luggage inside. Taking only my laptop bag, I decided to ask the locals about places to explore in Aru Valley. When I asked a local, he suggested hiring a horse because walking wasn't feasible for tourists, which is how they earn their living. Most Indians prefer horse riding over walking, so no offense to the locals.
I met a dry fruit seller who was very genuine and gentle. He told me about several places to visit: the Green Top hike (3-4 hours one way), Lidderwat (12 km hike from Aru Valley), and from Lidderwat to Tarsar Marsar Lake (5-6 hour hike), though the way to the lake might be blocked by glaciers. He also mentioned strolling around the market and riverside. I asked him about Tarsar Marsar Lake, which takes 4-5 days to reach. He explained that you could cover it in 2 days, depending on your hiking level, but some travel agencies stretch the days to earn more. I agreed with him and decided to go for the Green Top hike, which is an easy to moderate hike.
Hiking to Green Top
One thing worth mentioning is that Kashmir is very safe. You can set up your tent and roam around without worrying about theft. I started my hike towards Green Top, seeing people riding horses to the top. As I walked through the alpine forest, I reached Upper Aru Valley, where Shepherd (Gujjar) families had set up their shelters made of willow wood. The wooden houses were scattered around. I asked a child about schooling, and they said they go down to town for school and don't live here permanently. The Bakarwal or Gujjar (Shepherds) come here after winter and stay until October with their herds and horses. As you proceed towards the green top, there is trail on the opposite side going towards Nafran Valley and Harnag Lake.
As I ascended, I encountered beautiful landscapes with horses grazing, making the place even more picturesque. Following a small stream, I reached the top of Green Top, from where you could see Lidderwat and Aru Valley. The view was stunning, but unfortunately, my phone battery died, so I couldn't take photos.
Descending through a different path, I enjoyed the hike even more, passing through the alpine forest and following trails. I decided to take a bath in a small stream. The water was glacier-melted and very cold, but I love cold baths. Afterward, I returned to my campsite. Littering around the campsite is strictly prohibited, and there are heavy fines for it.
Hiking to Lidderwat
After exploring Aru Valley, I visited a local restaurant. The food wasn't very expensive compared to Himachal Pradesh. I enjoyed a local thali for INR 200, which included various Kashmiri dishes. After dinner, I returned to my tent and spent the night there. I also met a group of students who had set up their tents nearby, which made for good company.
The next day, I planned to hike to Lidderwat, a 12 km trek from Aru Valley, which serves as a base for camping and further hiking to Tarsar Marsar Lake. The trail to Lidderwat was quite challenging, especially at the beginning, with steep paths and tree roots spreading across the trail in the forest. However, as I progressed, I was greeted by the serene sound of the Lidder River and breathtaking views. It was one of the most beautiful places I had ever seen.
On my way, a Shepherd family offered me tea, which I gladly accepted. I entered their wooden hut, which was adorned with carpets, and they offered me Kashmiri Kahwa tea. They explained that it was salty, not sweet, and also served me Kashmiri Paratha, which was delicious. Although I didn't take much money with me, I gave INR 30 to the children as a token of gratitude before continuing my hike.
I wanted to get closer to the river, so I asked a shepherd if I could go to the riverside. He showed me the way, and I spent a few peaceful minutes by the river before returning to the trail towards Lidderwat. Along the way, I met another shepherd who informed me about a government tourist bungalow in Lidderwat where I could stay.
As I approached Lidderwat, I was surrounded by green meadows, grazing horses, and shepherd families herding their sheep. I reached Lidderwat at around 11 o'clock in the morning and spent an hour there, enjoying the tranquil environment. I met a security guard at the tourist bungalow and saw a few foreign tourists as well. I wanted to stay a night a Lidderwat but I have other places to explore. Now Lidderwat will be always in my bucket list.
I returned to Aru Valley by 3 o'clock, feeling immensely satisfied with my experience. Lidderwat, with its serene beauty, was one of the best places I had ever visited.
Key Points:
How to Reach Aru Valley: It is 12 KM away from the Pahalgam. First you need to visit Pahalgam. It is advisable to take shared taxi to avoid expensive fare of hiring private taxi. Jammu to Anantnag ( INR 500-600) and Anantnag to Pahalgam (INR 100).
Where to Stay: J&K Tourism Bungalow, homestays, and hotels in Aru Valley with various price ranges.Price ranges start from INR 800- 3000.
Where to Go: Explore places like Green Top, Lidderwat, Tarsar Marsar Lake, Chumnai Sar Trek, and Nafran Valley (Harnag Lake) using the Go Wild app. Trek to these places only start from Aru village. You can do camping at designated place of these treks.
Equipment: Bring tent equipment for camping and adhere to cleanliness guidelines to avoid fines. You can do your own camping at designated places. Please Download the GoWild App to locate the camping location.
Mobile Connectivity: There is limited network now. Only BSNL works as calling. Wifi Available at some resorts and homestays.
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