Discovering the Hidden Beauty of Kulgam: From Aharbal to Kungwattan
As I was heading to Pahalgam, I stopped my bike in Qazigund to grab something to eat. I met this local guy, Irshad, who struck up a conversation with me while we sipped tea. When I told him about my plan to explore Pahalgam, he immediately suggested I should also check out Kulgam. “There’s a beautiful waterfall called Aharbal,” he said, with a smile. Curious, I asked him about camping spots, and he was kind enough to show me some locations on his phone map. After finishing my time in Pahalgam, I decided to follow Irshad’s advice and head to Kulgam.
The Road to Aharbal Waterfall
I reached Anantnag and took the road leading toward Aharbal. Along the way, I kept stopping to ask the locals if I was on the right track. Each time I asked, the friendly Kashmiris not only pointed me in the right direction but also offered tea at their homes. That’s the thing about Kashmiri people—they’re so warm, kind, and welcoming. Every interaction made me feel more at ease. When I finally arrived at Aharbal, I parked my bike in the designated parking area. The ticket to the waterfall was just INR 20, so I grabbed one and started making my way to the falls. There’s a beautiful garden near the entrance, with a small café and a few stalls selling snacks. As I got closer to the waterfall, the sound of rushing water filled my ears, growing louder with each step.
And then, there it was—the Aharbal Waterfall. I was stunned. The water was milky white, crashing down against the rocks below, with hints of sky blue. It’s often called the Niagara of India, but I don’t like comparing it to places outside the country. Aharbal has its own unique charm, and I don’t think it needs to be compared to anything else.
I sat by the waterfall for a few minutes, just taking in the beauty of the place. I snapped a few photos, grateful to Irshad Bhai for suggesting this hidden gem.
Kungwattan: A Camping Adventure Begins
After exploring the waterfall, I headed back to the garden where I met Arshid, a local guide and hotel owner. He told me about Kungwattan, a meadow about 7 km away from Aharbal. It sounded like a peaceful place for camping, and I was ready for some solitude. Before setting out, I grabbed some biryani and a few snacks for the journey.
I rode my bike for about 1 km, then parked near the J&K Government Tourist Guest House. The staff there charged INR 50 per day for parking. They also offered me a camping spot close to the guest house for INR 300, but I was already set on camping at Kungwattan. I thanked them, strapped on my camping bag, and began the hike.
The trail to Kungwattan started wide and easy but quickly became muddy due to horses frequently passing through. Most tourists ride horses to Kungwattan, but I decided to hike. The 7 km trek wasn’t too tough—mostly easy with a few moderate spots.
On the way, I met a local couple heading toward their village. They told me about the Shepherds (Gujjars) who lived near Kungwattan and said they’d help me if I needed anything. After crossing Sangam Meadows and two wooden bridges—one of which was broken, making it harder to cross—I finally reached Kungwattan Meadows.
The meadow was massive, surrounded by alpine trees, and horses were grazing in the distance. This meadow also serves as the base camp for hikers heading to Kausarnag Lake, which is 20 km away. From Kungwattan, there’s also a trail leading to Chiranbal Meadows. I greeted some of the locals who owned the horses and started looking for a spot to set up camp.
As the sun started setting, I realized it was getting colder. There were already a few campers in the meadow, so I found a nice spot in the middle of the grassland and set up my tent. I gathered some firewood and tried to start a bonfire, but the wind made it nearly impossible. As I was struggling, I noticed a group of Bhakarwal nomads nearby, who had set up camp under the alpine trees.
I walked over to them, asking for help with the fire. They were in the middle of their dinner, but without hesitation, they offered to help once they were done eating. They even invited me to share their food, but I thanked them and said I already had something to eat. After a little while, three of the nomads came over, bringing more firewood with them.
We managed to get the fire going, and they stayed for a couple of hours, sharing stories about their nomadic lifestyle. They told me they come from Reasi in Jammu and travel with their livestock during the summer months. They showed me some photos of places like Raineera Meadows and Peer Ki Gali, and the beauty of these spots left me amazed. These were places I hadn’t heard of before—untouched, natural beauty that most tourists don’t get to see.
After a while, we said goodnight to each other, and I crawled into my tent for some rest.
I woke up the next morning to the sun shining over the dewy meadow, making everything look like it was covered in tiny crystals. The fresh air and peaceful surroundings made me feel refreshed. I took a walk around the meadow, greeted the nomads as they packed up their things, and even gave some apples to their children as a small token of thanks for helping me with the fire.
Once I was packed up, I started the hike back to Aharbal, thinking about how I still had to cover the 7 km trail again. When I arrived back at Aharbal, I met Arshid once more. It was around 10:00 AM, and we had planned to visit Chiranbal Meadows next.
Exploring Chiranbal Meadows
Chiranbal is about 15 km from Aharbal, along the DH Pora Road, so Arshid joined me for the ride. We entered the Chiranbal Wildlife Sanctuary, but after a few kilometers, the road became too muddy for the bike. We decided to park the bike on the side and continue on foot. The hike was about 1 km, and when we finally reached Chiranbal Meadows, I was blown away by its beauty.
The meadow was huge, stretching for kilometers, with a river flowing down below and a view of the distant Kausarnag Peak. The place was untouched and incredibly peaceful. Arshid, who is an Instagram influencer, quickly took out his phone and started capturing the landscape. He gave me a mini-lesson on how to take better photos and videos, but I’m not really into the whole influencer thing. It was fun to learn, though.
As we were setting up camp, it started raining around 2:00 PM. Arshid told me that heavy rain was coming, and we couldn’t take any risks. The road would become too muddy for us to ride back down safely. So, we packed up quickly and started the hike back to the bike, walking faster as the rain began to pour.
Heading to Panchan Pathri
After safely making it back to the main road, I dropped Arshid off at DH Pora and continued my journey toward Panchan Pathri. On the way, I was stopped by a CRPF officer, who asked where I was from and where I was going. When he asked if I ever felt scared traveling in Kashmir, I smiled and told him, “No, everyone has been incredibly kind and generous to me.”
As I got closer to Panchan Pathri, I met a local guy, Uzair Mir, riding his scooter. He kindly offered to guide me to Panchan Pathri and told me to follow him. On the way, we passed by Uzair’s house, and he invited me inside. His home was beautiful, with traditional Kashmiri carpets covering the floors. I was immediately struck by how cozy and warm the house felt.
Uzair’s small family—his mother and sister-in-law—welcomed me with Kashmiri chai, bread, and cookies. The food was delicious, especially the baked goods. We sat and chatted for a while about everyday life, apples, and the weather in the winter. He also shared a sad story about his father, who had gone missing when Uzair was a child. His family hadn’t heard from him since, and they didn’t know if he was still alive. We didn’t talk much more about it, but I could see how deeply it affected him.
After thanking Uzair’s family for their hospitality, I continued on my journey to Panchan Pathri. I stopped at a small shop, where I was warmly greeted by a group of about 10-12 people. They asked where I was from and where I was headed, and when they found out I was a traveler, they insisted I have a cold drink with them. I tried to pay for it, but they refused, saying, “Mehmano se paise nahi lete.” Their kindness and generosity were truly heartwarming.
Around 5:00 PM, I finally reached Panchan Pathri, a small meadow with a local school. Some locals were playing cricket, and one of them, Ali Bhai, a schoolteacher, introduced himself to me. He told me it was getting late and invited me to stay the night at his house, which was nearby. At first, I hesitated, but after some convincing, I agreed.
Ali Bhai’s family was just as warm and welcoming as everyone else I had met on this journey. They had two sons, and we all sat down to a simple, vegetarian dinner. They asked if I was vegetarian or non-vegetarian, and I told them I was vegetarian. The food was delicious, and the conversation was even better.
After dinner, Ali Bhai told me about HOUEN HENG Peak, which is near Panchan Pathri. The peak has an interesting history—it was the site of a plane crash in 1966, and many people lost their lives there. Ali Bhai showed me some photos of the peak, and it looked absolutely stunning.
The next morning, I woke up early, washed my clothes, and took a bath before heading out. I opened the GoWild App to look for my next destination and saw that Gulmarg and Srinagar were nearby. Since I had plans to meet my friend Adil in Srinagar, I decided to head there.
Before leaving, I thanked Ali Bhai and his family for their incredible hospitality. As I rode off toward Srinagar, I couldn’t help but reflect on the amazing journey I had just experienced. From the hidden beauty of Aharbal Waterfall to the peaceful meadows of Kungwattan and Chiranbal, this trip had been full of adventure and unexpected kindness from strangers.
A special Shukriya to Irshad, Arshid, Uzair Mir, and Ali Bhai for making this trip so unforgettable.
Key Tips and Highlights:
Where to Stay:
Arshad guest house in Kulgam: A budget-friendly stay at INR 1200-2000 per night with a welcoming host. Perfect if you’re looking for a cheap yet comfortable place. You can contact Arshad +917006884906. He is also a guide and has immense knowledge of Kulgam.
Camping Spots:
Kungwattan Meadows: A perfect spot for self-camping in a large, open meadow. It’s quiet, surrounded by nature, and offers beautiful views. If you’re looking for the exact location and other hidden camping spots, download the GoWild app.
Chiranbal Meadows: A perfect spot of camping. It is large and open meadows offers stunning views.
Places to Explore in Kulgam:
Kausarnag Lake: A challenging 20 km hike from Kungwattan, known for its breathtaking views.
Chiranbal Meadows: Another beautiful meadow accessible from Kungwattan, ideal for those looking to explore beyond the usual tourist spots.
Aharbal Waterfall: A stunning waterfall often referred to as the "Niagara Falls of India," though it’s beautiful enough to stand on its own without comparison. The entry fee is INR 20 per adult.
Kungwattan Meadows: A 7 km hike from the parking area, this serene meadow is surrounded by alpine trees and serves as a base camp for hikes to Kausarnag Lake and Chiranbal Meadows. The trail can be muddy, especially after rain, and is frequently used by horses.
Raineera Meadows and Peer Ki Gali: Recommended by the nomads I met, these places are known for their unreal, stunning beauty and are worth visiting if you have the time.
Panchan Pathri: A small, serene meadow perfect for camping and hiking, with friendly locals and a nearby school.
App Gowild helps you in navigating the places and stay. Download now by clicking the link:
Mobile network availability : You won't get mobile network at Kungwattan and chiranbal meadows.
Mobile network accessibility at Aharbal Waterfall and Panchan Pathri.
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